I’ve been playing around with my rules to adjust them for early medieval battles with my 15mm Feudals. I’ve been using my old faithful, the gridded felt as the field for some “micro-games”.
First, a robber knight attack on a fortified farm. The peasant by the cow (actually an unfinished crossbowman) bit the dust on the first turn. The bottleneck of the main gate and randomly generated in-fighting among the two robber groups resulted in a failed attack; it was ultimately a bloody but kind of boring game. I love the look of that little farm though!Next up, a four-way raid on an ancient temple. The front gate is barred so the four groups must m enter through the side gates. When a “wing” of the temple was entered were rolled to see what it held (treasure or foes).
Each of the four wings ended up holding monsters, culminating in a dragon that quickly blasted away most of the remaining warriors.
I ended both games prematurely when it quickly devolved into an un-winnable situation. Back to the drawing board. I think I just need to make larger groups, or change rules entirely. The smaller the game, the “bigger” the characters need to be, if that makes sense? If there’s 3 to a side, each needs to be a hero in their own right. I guess I understood that, but never tested it out before. Still, it was a fun learning experience!
I like your 15's, they allow for bigger games in smaller spaces if desired and can be a nice break from painting larger figures.
ReplyDeleteI agree on both counts, the figures definitely paint up faster too!
Deletea tip on basing. I use solid green bingo chips for my individually based 15mm and 1/72 foot figures. They are the same size as pennies, considerably less expensive and already green.
DeleteI very much agree with what Mark says. Bigger battles in smaller spaces works really well. The fifteens are full of character too which adds to the look of the game.
ReplyDeleteThank you regarding the figures, most of it Essex’ great casts! I love Essex 15’s.
Delete